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Kulawi
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I guess the thing I like best about Central Sulawesi are these small isolated, and cool,mountain villages. Kulawi is as sleepy as Tentena, but has a pretty active nightlife which centers around bamboo music. This music has been brought down from Manado, as has the man who makes the instruments. There are several groups in town consisting of about 20 musicians each. It's basically a wind ensemble with bamboo instruments ranging in sizes and designs from fifes to oboes. Sometimes there is singing and drumming as well. It's pretty much unlike other Asian music though, and reminds me more of music from the Andes. It obviously stems from the time of Spanish or Portuguese influences on the island. There are regular competitions between the locals and other villages, so the people take bamboo music quite seriously. Almost every night you can hear one or another group practising...just sit down and have a listen. Karambangan can also be found here...usually sung by young guys who seem to do nothing but wander around the hills accompanying their melancholy on guitar (Fado?). There's a couple of good spots to swim in local rivers. The water tends to rise pretty fast, so if it begins to rain, better get out of the water quickly! The problem with Kulawi will be accommodation. Officially there is a government guest house and someone told me it was open when they went there, but I don't know about this. You can try asking around (helps to speak Indonesian if you travel in Central Sulawesi), and the friendly villagers will probably be more than eager to find you a place to spend the night. If you like seguer you can ask around in the evening...there is usually some available between the late afternoon and early evening. You can get to Kulawi by Kijang in the morning from Masomba market in Palu. If you have come overland through Bada, you can find Kulawi another 20 kilometers or so down the road from Gimpu. | |||
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Girls swimming in river near Kulawi | |||
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| copyright 1999 by D. Fournier. Please contact me at [email protected] to copy information found here or to share something about Central Sulawesi. |
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